Tree Pruning

Trees and shrubs need to be pruned periodically, to remove dead branches and live, interfering branches and suckers; to allow sunlight to penetrate the crown of tree; to remove unsafe branches; and to shape trees for aesthetic value.

Pruning can be done at anytime, but late-winter and early-spring are generally the best times. However, trees such as birch and sugar maple (heavy bleeders) should not be pruned in the spring.

• Deadwooding is the removal of deadwood only, from open textured trees such as the oak.
• Large Deadwooding is the removal of large dead branches and unsafe limbs.
• Thinning is the removal of branches to allow light penetration, from heavy textured trees such as the maple.
• Pruning is the same as thinning, but allows for shaping of the tree.
• Light Thinning is the removal of smaller branches, only, from slow healing trees such as the elm.

In order to prune your trees and shrubs, you will need the following: Secateurs (handshears); a small-toothed pruning saw; a large-toothed pruning saw; a pole saw; a chainsaw; a ladder; a safety belt with lanyard; a climbing rope and saddle; a utility rope.

In addition, safety equipment such as a hard hat, steel-toed boots, safety glasses, hearing protection, leather gloves and a first-aid kit are absolute essentials.

Never remove more than 30% of live growth from any tree. Work uniformly, starting from the top of the tree and removing dead, interfering and unsafe branches. Remove any secondary leaders (dominant upright branches), and any suckers on the stem or main branches.

To prevent tearing of limbs, remove most of the branch’s weight.

• Make the first cut about one foot from the adjoining stem, on the underside of the limb. This cut should be 1/3 of the way through the limb.
• Make another cut two inches farther out from the first, on the top side of the branch. When this cut nears the first, the branch will snap off, leaving a stub.

Remove the remaining stub.

• The final pruning cut is made just outside the branch collar, which often appears as a swollen area at the base of the branch.

Shape trees while they are young. The cuts you make are smaller and heal faster, and trees become generally more healthy.

On a yearly basis, remove all large canes at ground level. Shear the top by making cuts just above side branches or healthy buds, to the desired height. This process prevents shrubs from appearing overgrown or “leggy.”

Do not prune evergreens unless branches overhang an area you don’t wish obscured.  For small ornamental evergreens, prune new growth in half during June or when candles have just elongated. Do not cut into the previous year’s growth if at all possible.