Tree Planting

Decide what you want before you plant. Ask yourself:

• Do I want a shade tree, or an open-grown tree which would allow light through?
• Do I want a flowering tree?
• Do I want a fast-growing tree?
• Do I want a tree that will attract birds or squirrels?
• Do I want a tree with a large crown or do I want a pyramidal or weeping tree?
• How much maintenance work, such as pruning, am I prepared to do?

The best time to plant is in the spring, when the frost has gone out of the ground. Any type of plant can be moved this time of year. For some stock, the season extends until the buds have opened. Containerized or ball and burlap material can be planted later, but should go in before the end of June.

Planting may also be done in the fall, when the leaves have dropped off deciduous trees and shrubs. However, some species, such as birch and magnolia, should only be planted in the spring.

Evergreens can be planted from the middle of August on to the first of October. Some evergreens such as cedar and Austrian pine do not transplant well after October 1^st.

Check the proposed planting area for the following:

• Space – How much room is there for the tree to grow? How large do you want the tree to grow?
• Landscape – How will the tree complement the surrounding area?
• Light – Does the tree require full sun or partial shade to grow?
• Moisture – Will the tree grow in a dry – moist – wet area?
• Wind – Does the plant need protection against prevailing winds?
• Hardiness – Will the plant grow in the micro-climate created in your yard?
• Existing soil conditions – Is the tree suited more to clay or sandy soil?

• Always dig the hole for the tree or shrub at least twice the size of the root mass or ball.
• Amend the planting soil with organic matter or peat moss. Always incorporate parent soil (just dug from the ground) with the amended soil, even if it is the poorest clay, breaking up any large lumps.
• Back-fill the planting soil and tamp until the depth of the hole equals the height of the root ball.
• Plant the tree so the root collar is slightly above the existing grade to allow for settling.
• Install a stake on the north-west side of any tall, bare–root tree, ensuring that roots are not damaged by this procedure. Brace the tree with rubber strapping that will not injure the stem.
• Do not stake shrubs or evergreens.
• Tamp soil around installed tree until existing grade is reached.
• Water thoroughly until water percolates from the top of the hole.
• Cover the hole with a mulch such as woodchips to aid in moisture retention, retardation of weed growth and slow nutrient release.
• Water the newly planted tree regularly in periods of drought.
• Do not over-water, as roots must breathe.
• If you are planting in very hard, clay soil it is a good idea to excavate the hole a little deeper and put some broken aggregate, such as gravel, rock or brick in the bottom of the hole.
•  Fertilize the tree each spring with a good, balanced fertilizer, such as 10-6-4.